It's
been a little over a week since we packed up my truck in Ely, said
our goodbyes and left the Boundary Waters behind to return to our
lives that, by all appearances, have continued on just fine in our
absence. My tent (yes I traded life on trail in the winter in a tent
to life at home in the winter in a tent) is in the state I left it,
save for the new mouse nest I found that was a compilation of chewed
up tye-dyed tapestry and fringe from my wool rug. The wood pile was
just as pathetic as I left it, my dear wood stove was cold and quiet
and the trails that I made meandering around my property became the
favored paths of the deer and coyotes. It has
taken a week to catch up with life (catch up? what is this, a race?)
and to start collecting the distilled droplets of condensed thoughts
and reflections from this experience. I am not a great record keeper
despite at least a dozen attempts at keeping a journal, so I will piece
together the day-to-day aspects of this trip amongst my more typical
free range thoughts. Yukon (his Appalachian Trail name) is writing another blog on this trip, so
if you want his view of the trip or more detail on our adventure,
be sure to check out his blog at: http://yukonsquest.blogspot.com/
Coming
off trail from this type of adventure is hard; you begin to become
institutionalized to life in the Wild to the point where you wonder how or
if you can function back in the modern world. As Ernest Shackleton
on his Nimrod expedition to Antarctica said “We are now reveling in
the indescribable freshness of the Antarctic that seems to permeate
one's being, and which must be responsible for that longing to go
again which assails each returned explorer...” You don't have to
visit the polar regions to become addicted to or assailed by that
freshness- it exists anywhere where the human spirit can live free
from the artificial bonds and drudgerous toils of modern life. That
freshness lives precariously teetering on the edge between this life
and that life, within grasp of anyone with the heart to try but far
enough out over the void that there is no guarantee if you reach just
a bit too far and tread out on the crumbling threshold betwixt the
two worlds that you won' tumble off the edge of existence, perhaps
never to make it back to share your story or if you do you may forever
become that solitary creature sitting at the end of the bar with the
100 mile gaze, searching the darkness for memories of your last taste of
freshness and the route to your next fix. All of us who pin the word
“explorer” or “adventurer” high upon our being know full well
that by chasing that freshness we pay a steep toll and are required
to sacrifice much, but once that life is experienced, our blood is
never again still in our veins.
Perhaps
what Shackleton was alluding to is the vivacity and simplicity of life
on trail or the freedom from the frenetic and overwhelming
milieu we learn to live with in our daily lives. Maybe he is
speaking to that moment, that beautifully intense moment when you
realize you are out there; after months of planning, organizing, and
waiting, you are there, and you love every iota of it-
perfection. Shackleton was Thoreauvian philosophy in action, living
Henry David's iconic statement “I wanted to live deep and suck out
all the marrow of life...to drive life into a corner, and reduce it
to it's lowest terms, and, if it proved to be mean, why then to get
the whole meanness of it, and publish it's meanness to the world;
or if it were sublime, to know by experience and be able to give a
true account of it.” From “The Worst Journey in the World” to
“The Heart of the Antarctic” the cannon of South Pole exploration
has reports on the frozen continent's meanness and sublimity-
accounts from the people who drove life into that cold, dark and
windy corner. Explorers get the meanness and the sublime oftentimes
in a concoction of the two- a little of both- the good with the bad,
after all too much of one or the other and you can get either
complacent or disenchanted (or worse). Shackleton was a master of
converting the meanness to the sublime, as alchemist of perspective
and situation- not all polar explorers were so lucky just as not all
of us modern explorers who take to the empty places on the map are so
lucky, but fortunately for our group of five we got meanness in
tolerable amounts and came home with much more of the latter.
Oh
the sublime- your face gets burned by the wind and the sun, your
muscles become toned and surprisingly bulgy from the continuous labor
and your spirit gets a layer of gristle from the intense presence of
reality- a good thing for the adventurous type. The problem with the
sublime is that it is ethereal and that all those highly prized side
effects of this type of adventure fade quickly when exposed to life
at home. You acquire a softness at an alarming speed- all that hard won
edge/hard won toughness dissolves like a setting sun, you blink and
its gone.
Instead
of doing the dishes from the trip which have been sitting on my porch
for over a week now, I choose to let my mind wander into the blank
spaces, into the roadless areas of our consciousness in order to draw
meaning from this experience, and also I suspect, as a way to avoid
doing the dishes. I speak of all this as that is where my mind has
been since getting back to life after our trip...oh yeah our trip.
By
the numbers:
5
guys
5
toboggans
2
canvas tents
400,000
calories
1,000,000
acres (1,500 sq.miles) of wilderness
70+
miles traveled
19
days on trail
1
frostbitten finger (which healed on trail)
-55
below wind chills
3'+
of snow
1
close call with thin ice
1
otter
3
broken snow shoes (3 fixed snowshoes)
1
mile (slowest day)
9
miles (fastest day)
16
days with no signs of other people
The
Group: